Wednesday, 27 April 2022

Tips on how to Adjust Your current Brake Pads and Rotors.


Do-it-yourself and conserve money! Spend less by doing-it-yourself. Regardless of the method that you say it, it can definitely add up. I like the phrase so much that I think I'll allow it to be my new mantra. Maybe you need to too. I've literally saved 1000s of dollars by doing my own personal auto repairs. Among the coolest DIY projects you can certainly do is performing your own personal brake job.

This job is not at all hard when compared to other repairs but there are many steps involved and they must be followed carefully. We're going to break it down into 3 parts; (1) removing the brake pads, (1a) removing and replacing the rotors (brake discs), and (2) reinstalling the brake pads. If you're just replacing your brake pads, skip 1a and jump to part 2 after completing part 1.

I would mention that we're discussing disc brakes only. Disc brakes will either be on the front wheels only or both front and rear. Some vehicles have drum brakes on the rear wheels and the procedure for replacing them is slightly different. Are you currently ready? OK, let's get started.

Parts list

Brake Pads

Brake rotors [a.k.a. discs] (if applicable)

Brake rotor hold-down bolts (if applicable)

Caliper guide bolts (replace if bad)

Caliper guide bolt bushings

Brake pad sensor wires(if applicable)

Brake parts cleaner

Anti-squeal compound

Brake parts grease

Anti-seize compound

Tools list

Breaker bar

Ratchet & Sockets (SAE and Metric)

Allen bits for ratchet

Various screw drivers

Wire cleaning brush

Caliper piston tool/medium C-clamp

Shop rags

Bungee cord

Nitrile gloves

Rubber mallet

Torque wrench

Part 1

Changing the brake pads

First, determine if your going to restore the pads at all wheels or perhaps two. You'll replace the pads in pairs, front wheels or rear wheels. For an entire job and best results, do all 4 wheels. If your budget and/or time constraints won't allow it, do front or rear. The front wheel brake calipers, pads, and rotors are larger than those on the rear and cost a little more. The procedures for both are simply the same.

By determining perhaps the brake job is for two wheels or four may also determine whether you'll jack leading, rear, or both ends of the vehicle. If you have an impact gun to get rid of the lug nuts from the wheels, you can proceed with the jacking. If you have to get rid of the lug nuts employing a crowbar, you need to loosen them a little (breaking the seize) whilst the wheels are on the ground. After the wheels are in the air, they might turn freely, that may make removing the lug nuts very difficult, or even impossible. Safely jack the vehicle and then support it on jack stands. Never perform work while an automobile is only supported by a jack. Jacks fail and you may well be putting your daily life in danger.

Once a wheel is removed, take away the anti-rattle clip (if applicable) by prying it and sliding it out with a large screwdriver. Next, let's take away the brake caliper. For leading wheels, it may be necessary to turn the steering completely either to the proper or even to the left to gain access to the caliper guide bolts. Typically, they're on the back side of the caliper. The caliper guide bolts might have dust caps. These will be made of rubber or plastic. Work with a small screwdriver to pry them out. After the caps are removed, the bolt heads will be exposed.

Utilizing your ratchet and the right socket or Allen bit, take away the 2 bolts. Grasp the caliper and pull it from the rotor. You might need to utilize a large screwdriver to pry it loose. Remove both brake pads from the caliper, prying if necessary. One brake pad may be attached with the caliper piston by a clip. Loosen the clip and the pad will fall out. If your automobile is built with brake pad sensor wires, carefully take away the wire from the pad. The sensor wire will be on a single pad of either the proper or left wheel. Make note which wheel gets the wire.

Now, its time for you to re-compress the caliper piston. As brake pads wear, they cause the piston to push further and further out from the caliper. The piston must certanly be pushed back so that you can fit the brand new, thicker brake pad in place. You can use one of many old pads and a piston compression tool or c-clamp to push it back in. Simply place the old pad on the surface of the piston and tighten the tool or c-clamp to press it back place.

Use your bungee cord to hold the heavy caliper from the spring or suspension carrier as you obtain ready to install the brand new pads. Never calipers to hold by their brake lines as they are heavy and will damage the line. Place several rags under the parts and spray brake parts cleaner liberally to the caliper, bolts, bracket, etc. to thoroughly clean everything. You might need to use your wire cleaning brush as well.

Part 1a

Removing the brake rotor (disc)

If you're replacing your brake rotors as well, follow this procedure. Given that the caliper is removed, its time for you to take away the brake rotor. First, you need to get rid of the caliper bracket. It's this that the caliper was resting on and can also be where you previously unscrewed the caliper guide bolts. The bracket is connected via two bolts. You'll need to use your breaker bar and the right socket to get rid of it.

After the bracket is remove, its time for you to take away the brake rotor (disc). The rotor is held in place by either one or two hold down bolts. These bolts will be comparatively smaller than the others and may require the usage of your Allen wrench. Support the brake rotor as you loosen the bolts. Remove the bolts. If the rotor does not come off, you will need to utilize a rubber mallet and hammer it from the back to loosen it. Corrosion involving the rotor and wheel hub might have caused it to seize.

Reinstalling the brake rotor

You'll reinstall the rotor in the reverse order. To avoid the rotor from seizing to the wheel hub, apply a thin layer of anti-seize compound to the wheel hub before putting the brake rotor back on. I'd also put a little anti-seize compound on the threads of the rotor hold-down bolt. Tighten all bolts using your torque wrench set at the right setting.

Apply a thin layer of anti-seize compound to the threads of the caliper bracket bolts as well. Be mindful not to get any on top of the rotor. Following these steps could make your next brake rotor change a breeze.

Part 2

Installing new brake pads

Note: Some anti-squeal compound type require curing for at the least six hours before installing the pads on the vehicle. See the instructions on the product to find out whether you need to apply it to the back of the brand new pads on the night time before.

First, apply the anti-squeal compound to the back of the pads, not to the surface that comes touching the rotors. Remove the bungee cord and support the caliper. Next, carefully install the pads in to the brake caliper. The 2 pads should differ in features and fit so you shouldn't get confused concerning which fits where. If your automobile is built with brake pad sensor wires, carefully install the wire in the pad.

Install the caliper/pad assembly on the the surface of the brake rotor. Make sure to seat the brake pads in to the notches of the caliper bracket. Align the holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper bracket. Apply a thin layer of brake parts grease to the caliper guide bolts and slide them in. Tighten the bolts using your torque wrench at the right setting. You can find the bolt torque settings in your service manual, owner's manual, and of course the internet. The local auto parts store will be helpful as well. Reinstall the caliper guide bolt caps to keep the brake dust out.

Reinstall the anti-rattle clip (if applicable) using your large screwdriver. This may have a little patience and for me, this 1 step took probably the most time. Persevere.

Once you've completed pad change, you can reinstall each wheel.

Test drive

The next thing is to break the brake pads in. This procedure is also referred to as "bedding" the brakes. You can find a lot of information regarding this procedure on the internet. Basically, it involves making some stops from 55 mph while applying more brake pedal pressure with each successive stop. Five to ten stops is generally all that's necessary.

Performing your own personal brake job is not so difficult and the savings can be huge! Not to mention the confidence boost you'll get. I know you can certainly do it. I've confidence in your abilities. Tell those service managers "I'll handle it", the next occasion they try to split up you from your cash. I sure did and you'll too!

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